As predicted we awoke to rain, a little at first and then more, a lot more, but no surprises there. My morning started reasonably well, having decided to get the bike unlocked and prepared, then to forgo breakfast in the hotel (rather than the traditional buffet we’re used to, they had a Starbucks which was proving less than convenient), and wandered next door to what could best be described as a “Hillbilly general store / diner”. There were 3 generations of the same family working there (including a boisterous baby in a kiddy cage), and without wishing to appear unkind, perhaps evidence that procreation within a tight gene pool is usually not a good thing. Not to worry, the coffee was ok, and it was an experience. Back to the room to pack, then as the bags were loaded into Barbs wagon, I realised I could not find my keys - dramas, searching, retracing steps, unloading the van, etc - eventually found, phew, winner of “Dickhead of the day”. Being prepared and dressed for rain was one thing, but over the next hour what had started as a lovely if slightly cautious ride through more of the windy Smokey Mountains became more challenging, as a heavy mist added to the mix bringing visibility down to almost zero. The conditions really were extremely challenging and I soon dispensed with my visor, then my glasses, relying on “naked eyeball” in an effort to see. As the day progressed and the rain died away we had wet leaves to factor into the mix, but those are the hazards we endure, and no reason to back off too much. It is easy to see how, when shrouded in mist the Smokey Mountains earned this name, and as described by Mike C, “eerily beautiful “. First stop of the day brought us to rest area near a herd of elk, close and unconcerned, (a stag was sufficiently unperturbed to half heartedly attempt to exert his proprietary rights with one of the females but because she was busy eating, his advances were rejected). Back on the bikes, more miles and from Kentucky into North Carolina for coffee at Maggie Valley, new rain gear for Nev from a well stocked “Mom & Pop” motorcycle accessories store, and gas. This area is famous with motorcyclists who travel from far and wide with rides known as “The tail of the Dragon”, and “The Rattler”. Countless videos have been made, and many a foolhardy biker found wanting testing their skills over these technical rides and ending up dead, but other than for a brief spell late afternoon, today didn’t present the opportunity to do much other than concentrate on staying out of trouble. Our lunch stop proved to be another gold nugget of a country diner, in fact “The Smokey Mountain Diner”, still in North Carolina, run by a bunch of very friendly and efficient ladies who served up really great food (my burger came with apple and blackberry cobbler - hmmm). The next leg provided an opportunity to give the bikes a bit more of a run, while being ever mindful of still damp corners and wet leaves. The scenery provided everything you’d expect in Appalachia, hamlets of “Hillbilly’s”, wrecked cars and tumble down trailer homes in poor repair, to some quite spectacular and well presented estates. I was especially drawn to the many old barns, many over 200 years old, the first building on every farm, some still standing, crooked with the weariness of age and many harsh winters, others collapsed having eventually succumbed as all things must. Our hotel for the night is a famous rambling old establishment in Virginia, with links all the way back to Martha Washington (wife of George), a quaint and creaky place, and quite a pleasant contrast to the generic places we usually stay. Tomorrow, another destination named “Hot Springs” (the second of our tour), in Virginia, with a bitterly cold day forecast. Comments are closed.
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Don MalcolmA perfect day involves being on my Harley with a long ride ahead.
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