On Doc's recommendation that we booked into the Fairmont Vancouver for last night before heading home. A very grand establishment built in the 1930's, the Fairmont is a far cry from modern hotels, and especially unique in that many it boasts two ""canine ambassadors," Mavis and Beau, either of whom are available to take guests on a tour of the streets around the hotel Linda has just met a third ambassador, Ellie, who apparently is also very cute Cheers Mikes cocktail, complete with bacon and served in a boot Neville in action Mel, Brian and Bree ordering drinks The decision as to where to go for dinner was fairly easy - The concierge at our hotel recommended a steak and ribs joint directly across the road, which came with the added bonus of a 10% discount - another adjacent restaurant, also recommended was full, so steak and ribs won. Mike C took advantage of the eclectic cocktail list, and staying with the western theme ordered a drink that came with a slice of bacon - yuck. I was out the door before sunrise, earplugs in, wandering around the district that encompassed a number of Kelowna's large and prosperous car dealerships, in fact probably more accurately "pick up truck" dealers - they obviously place huge emphasis on this market. An hour later I returned ready for coffee, and saw Mel and Mike in conversation with a very attractive young lady who was waiting for a taxi, notable in that her attire was more suited to "revealing evening" rather than 7am "go to work". Apparently the subsequent conversation established that she had just completed her nights errand.... 8am saw us ready to embark on the final day of our epoch, the ride back to Vancouver, the first leg of which took us to the outskirts of Pendticton, famous as Doc delighted in telling us the night before, as the place where farmer Willy Pickton (from Penticton), murdered at least 6 and confessed to a total of 49 people, feeding the bodies of the unfortunate victims to his pigs, including a huge boar weighing nearly 300kgs. The subsequent investigation that required the farm to be taken apart in the search for evidence apparently cost the Canadian taxpayer upwards of 70 million dollars, and saw sick Willy jailed for 25 years, the maximum sentence allowed. The ride was again sublime, the efforts of master road builders much appreciated as we made excellent progress, revelling in the scenery and the pure joy that being on the road with good friends brings. Since the first day we each found the position in the pack that we were most comfortable, (except ever diligent and obliging Neville, who assumed the role of "Tail end Charlie", a thankless task that limits the opportunities to open up as often as others). We front 4 (Doc, Mel both riding solo, with Brian and I accompanied by co-pilots), quickly established a pattern and trust based on skill and the certainty of what each of the others would do in any situation- there is a great deal of satisfaction being able to ride in a formation that could be covered by a handkerchief, sweeping around corners at well above the recommended speed. Each days riding adds to the store of knowledge, and like a golfer improving his handicap, gradually measurable and lots of fun. We enjoyed the best part of an hour of magnificent 4 lane highway through the last of the Rockies, really stretching our legs and making the most of fairly light traffic and even fewer police cars, which was just as well. Rather than errant wildlife causing concern, it was an elderly hillbilly on a blue mobility scooter zipping around a corner (on the road), straight through a stop sign and into our path - he'd have caused more damage than a 20kg doe.... such was our welcome to the small and optimistically named "Hope", lunch stop for the day. Back on the road for the final stretch, starting with another quick 120km before brake lights ahead indicated that our progress was about to slow, and slow it did considerably as we neared Vancouver, averaging 30-40kph over the next hour in blazing heat, and neither man or machine enjoy these conditions. As with most road trips, it is the first and last couple of hours that are the most trying. We celebrated our safe arrival back at the hotel, firstly with a blowout at the bar complete with Baldric's final fine session (poor Mel contributing most), before wandering across the river for a lovely team dinner. Those bikes that were not returned yesterday are about to be delivered back to Eagle Rider, each having 5000km more on the clock than two weeks ago. Time to go. lunch in Hope
A new Ram Pickup Truck for $46,000! Nelson is another pretty town, said to be very liberal, and, according to what we'd heard, home to a strong gay community. Our stay coincided with a contingent of firefighters from all over, each arriving on their motorcycle to enjoy the company of their peers over the next few days - a great bunch (like most Harley people)! We enjoyed a great dinner at the Regency Hotel, directly across the road from the Best Western, our home for the night - good food, reasonably good music from the DJ, and exceptional attention from the all girl staff, some quite butch, some quite delicate, but probably the best service we've seen all trip. Whilst out wandering around town this morning I took an interest in the pickup trucks at the Dodge Dealership, with a 5.7L Ram Hemi with all the fruit listed at a touch over $46,000 - sounds like a good deal to me, with a similar truck costing about 3 times that in New Zealand. Few of your namby pamby Prius Eco wagons out in the Rockies. An 8am departure saw us leave Nelson without too much fuss, the mufti cop in the very obvious black Dodge Charger Pursuit vehicle untroubled by our passing, first stop Silverton for coffee, and a late breakfast for those who prefer to eat a bit later. Wherever we stop people talk to us, curious, friendly and interested. A guy running a second hand shop in Silverton mentioned that he'd visited NZ as a young man whilst enlisted in the Canadian Navy, the tour to coincide with Capt Cooks discovery in 1778. The Canadians we've met have been quite knowledgeable about we Kiwis, many have or want to visit, but in fairness, and trying to put natural bias aside, The Canada we have seen is at least as beautiful as anywhere in NZ, and much more of it. Once out of the cities, you get the impression that the goodness and honesty of the people is obvious. More magnificent scenery, including a chance encounter with a couple of deer crossing the road, the first gently emerging from the scrub at roadside then trotting unconcerned to the other side, the second following shortly after. Unfortunately it is apparent that not all crossings are as uneventful, with the evidence of massive impacts plain to see as big black patches on the road, (congealed blood) sometimes 2 or 3 close together- not good in a car, but probably a game changer to both parties if a motorcycle is involved. Another ferry crossing, this time much shorter, our ferry cable driven, but again, a pleasant distraction. Lunch time saw us chance upon a family owned and operated Diner in the small town of Lumby (1600 people), run by husband and wife English immigrants and their delightful daughter Millie, after which the diner was named. A slick team, Mum & Dad churning meals out of the kitchen quickly and efficiently, while Millie ran front of house - I'd hire her tomorrow given the opportunity. Back on the road for the final 75km of riding, much of it around Okanagan Lake, beautiful on a sunny afternoon. We have arrived in Kelowna, a place I had never heard of previously, and at just under 200,000 people, apparently Canada's 22nd largest city. Don Malcolm +64 21 924 114 Millies Kitchen in Lumby BC - worth a visit
As anticipated our resident Trainspotters Baldric & Lynn darted off to the Revelstoke Train Museum with indecent haste after arrival in town yesterday - Lynn appearing later with the tourist T shirt. Having said that, I also invested $10 to check out the exhibits and came away impressed with the effort and commitment required by early railway people.
Revy saw the tail end of us at 8am, having proven in a couple more ways that it really is a fabulous town. During the summer months there is a concert in the town square every night - unfortunately we arrived after dinner, and just a wee bit too late. Brian and Bree ended up at a restaurant that had a great blues band, but unfortunately kept Schtum until the place closed...nice one guys! Linda and I went to one of the two Japanese restaurants in town and had a reasonable meal, not nearly as good as our local in Half Moon Bay, but adequate. Another group went to the alternate Japanese and suffered an extremely disappointing meal. Not to worry, rather than the reconstituted eggs we've endured at every breakfast until now, today we were treated to the option of fried eggs over easy, a real treat. Unlike the great facilities and service at the Best Western in Revy, the breakfast room in Golden really was a below par, but you get all sorts. Today's ride was without doubt one of the most scenic- a big call bearing in mind every day has been spectacular. 45kms in we were treated to a ferry ride across the Upper Arrow Lake, a free trip that is provided as part of Highway 23 - apparently it works out much better to provide this ferry service, cheaper than providing a road that would have to go around the lake. A very pleasant sojourn and an opportunity to take in the view from the water. We shared the ferry with more motorcycles, logging and freight trucks, and of course the ubiquitous pick up trucks, some with big 5th wheel RVs, others work trucks loaded with what ever was required for the day. We stopped for a break and the enjoy a local market in New Denver (previously named El Dorado), but neither name changes the fact that this wee hamlet never fulfilled s the expectations early settlers imagined. Local artisans, bakers of biscuits and sellers of fruit, together with the occasional wanna be child musician desperately in need of more lessons all vied for the tourist dollar, and 17 Harley people from New Zealand were an interesting topic of conversation whilst also adding to the mix. The run from New Denver through to Kaslo was one of the prettiest rides I can remember anywhere in the world, river and road running side by side as we enjoyed gently sweeping turns through the valleys between the steep and rugged mountains on either side. That is what we signed up for. No description I can give would come close to doing the scenery justice. As the day progressed the temperature rose, and our arrival in Nelson was probably when the sun was at its hottest - most of us had stripped down and been riding in T shirts, but unloading the bikes and gear was a job best completed quickly. I have gassed up our bike, and can see from "Whatsapp", our means of group communication that some are doing washing or other chores, others are wandering around town, while your diligent scribe runs out of steam - cold shower required to wash sweat and road dust away before thinking about drinks and dinner. Don Malcolm +64 21 924 114 We've recently arrived at Revelstoke, (Revy to the locals) today's destination, another lovely small town in the Rockies, apparently known for its Railway Museum (so no bets as to where train spotter Baldric will be spending the afternoon), but also the site of Canada's largest ever overnight snowfall back in 1972.
Lunch at a delightful cafe, under an umbrella in the sun - the sort of cafe those of us with too little "won't power" would prefer not to have next door. Most of the crew went bear spotting this morning, and were well rewarded with the real deal - great news, especially for Bree who has a special connection. Linda and I chose to "fly solo" today, travelling at our own pace, initially exploring the delights of Golden, and in particular it's apparently famous wooden trestle bridge Once on the go we were slowed a littlef by significant roadworks - not road works as we know it in NZ with gangs of blokes puddling about seemingly achieving little over a long period of time, but huge undertakings widening, straightening and generally taming the path of the Trans Canada Highway, with evidence of great effort around every corner. Leaving Golden was to climb back in to the smoke we'd left behind a week ago, many fires still burning not too far from the road, but apparently well under control. It is easy to forget, especially with the media promoting bubble gum journalism, that fires are very much part of the order of things in the Rockies, and that to prevent fires would be to eventually destroy the forest. Revy is like so many of the towns we've frequented, judging by the people and faces in the city centres, apparently very mono cultural. There are "Native Indians" (and I won't comment on the PC bs in this regards), but usually only evident in the poorer outskirts of town, and a few immigrant hotel / motel owners, with Asian tourists only evident in waves in the really touristy spots. The day has again progressed from fairly brisk when I left this mornings hotel at about 6am for a wander, to a very warm 26C now. As with everywhere we have been on this trip, in the cities and the small towns, wherever you look "Help Wanted" signs are posted predominantly in shop, cafe and restaurant windows - plenty of work if you want it. One further observation, made as an erstwhile Truckie, being the surprising number of Volvo trucks on the road, particularly on long haul work (I'd guess about 30-40% of trucks on duty this Swedish make), with Kenworth, Western Star and Peterbilt also very prevalent, (whatever happened to Mack?). Having said that, every truck on construction duty is made in the USA. Rumour has it a group will be heading to the Railway museum shortly, so time for me to go. Don Malcolm +64 21 924 114 A late note to my previous addition - Leaving Calgary en route to Longview, way out on the prairie yesterday we noted a line of caps affixed to fence posts - a very long line of many thousands of caps, perhaps 3km from end to end, reminiscent of the bra fence near Cardrona. Quite unusual.
I went for a walk around Firnie this morning, noting groups of guys congregating, all waiting to be collected by the Company Bus - actually more like a coach, provided to get the boys to the mines - hell of a way to earn a living. In deference to the various bike temperature gauges (varying between 7-9C), we all rugged up warmly in multiple layers knowing it would be a cold couple of hours before the warmth of the sun kicked in - unfortunately our first leg was only several hundred metres, one of our number urgently requiring more air in a rear tyre, not a simple task on a touring Harley. So, quite a big day today, eventually well over 500km, including a bit of a detour (70 kms) to take in a Harley Dealership in the Kootenays for more T shirts, assorted gloves and other essential paraphernalia. A local Sheriff impeded our progress for quite a while, thwarting our intentions to make up lost time, but that's the way things go. By all accounts we're still very much in Bear country (you can even buy Bear repellent in a spray can - although my money would still be on the bear), but look as we might, no bears to be seen, well, not until tonight. So, tonight in the curiously named town of "Golden", back in the Rockies, just over the BC side of the border, a town of 3800 souls whose history is tied to that of the CPR, the mighty Canadian Pacific Railway. Dinner for a group of us was a very pleasant Italian Restaurant that was full on a Monday night - no pizzas but a lovely antipasto, and the veal special for me, together with a few bottles of nice Chianti.
Calgary turned on a lovely morning, at 7-8C, quite cool but no sign of last nights wild weather, so everyone dressed according even if the first leg was only a few kms to Kane's, the local Harley dealer for obligatory T shirts and wander around. One of the parts guys at Kane's mentioned that he'd never ventured further than 80km from the city - amazing. The worst part of any trip is getting into and out of cities, so it was with that in mind that we were pleased to see the tail end of Calgary. Judging by the prevalence of cranes in the inner city, civic works on the go, and the scale and grandness of many of the buildings downtown, Calgary is a prosperous oil and prairie town - a far cry from our last visit 30 plus years ago. So back onto the freeway, then onto quieter country roads, long and straight heading south, the farms and ranches also reflecting apparent prosperity, huge paddocks made into round hay bales as far as the eye could see, awaiting the onset of the long and cold winter. Lunch was at literally a one horse town (he was tethered outside) out on the prairies, a town that apparently rarely suffers from much snow, but is prone to extreme winds from time to time. Lundbreck is a community that at is peak boasted 150 residents, but now makes do with about 75, with cheap gas and passing trade just keeping the place ticking over. I exchanged greetings and brief conversations with several locals, one of who, a very pleasant young lady with a toddler and a baby, and no real prospect of escape from the only place she has ever known. Just along the road at another small town named "Frank" was the site of the 1903 Rock slide disaster - an estimated 90 million tons (and that is a lot) of rock was sent crashing through this small mining town in the wee small hours of the morning, killing 70-90 people. Continuing on the theme of disasters, we also stopped in at Sparwood, a coal mining town that surrenders it's young men individually and in groups, sometimes many in a year, other times several years between each sacrifice, but there can be no doubt that there is a price to be paid, and that price is very high. However, Sparwood is probably better known as site of the Worlds biggest truck, a behemoth that weighed over 550 tonnes fully loaded. It was a one of a kind and eventually became too expensive to maintain and is now in retirement, part of the monument to the towns history. It was here I spoke briefly to a French Canadian couple, touring with two young boys on a pair of recumbent bicycles- a hell of a way to see this massive country. Don Malcolm +64 21 924 114 I have mentioned that at as well as the Harley Bells we rely on to keep us safe on the road, some of us also adopt mascots to accompany us as we ride.
Bree and Brian brought their Kiwi from home, whilst others of us have picked up ours as time and circumstances have allowed. Tina and Nigel have a white bear, Doc was gifted a Beaver by Kim (and there is a story behind this, but not for publication), and most recently, our new passenger, Rocky A short hop today, less than 150kms in a straight line, but we don't do straight lines, so quite a bit further via the scenic route.
In deference to what was going to be a shortish day on the road, Doc opted for a 10am start, which suited the "non early " risers far better than a couple of the 7am starts previous days. I went for an early walk through Banff township, initially dodging the loads of tourists moving from hotel to tour bus, oblivious to anyone not part of their impenetrable "crocodile". Once passed these hordes, my path became far less crowded and as a consequence, much more pleasant, watching the retailers, and in particular the cafe people, get their day under way.take away the tourists and the town would almost certainly die. We left in sunshine, but with the threat of rain very much front of mind. As I write this, looking out the 14th floor window of our residence for the night in downtown Calgary, a thunderstorm has been percolating and brewing for some time, each blast of lightning soon followed by a loud clap of thunder, but with very little rain. Today's route doubled back on itself to include more scenic riding, taking in delightful one and two building "villages" like "Elbow" (where, like several others who had already started a trend, we adopted a mascot, Rocky the chipmunk for our Harley), and Longview, where 3 very pleasant woman were run off their feet catering to 17 Kiwis all wanting lunch. As we enjoyed a sandwich, the sky darkened and rain fell, big fat and heavy drops followed by hail, but as quickly as it came, it went - but only after we'd all struggled into wet weather gear. The people at Elbow tempted us with tales of a mother bear and her cub, (known by her tag number as 142), who apparently frequent the immediate area - but not today. By way of small consolation some of us saw a wolf, trotting quite unconcerned a few metres of the road. Eventually, as we progressed closer to Calgary, the Rockies gave way to prairie, and the road straighten into the horizon, few corners now required. The approach to this bigger cities is probably the part we like the least - open roads becoming freeways then inner city streets, traffic lights and one way streets, all confusing and complicated, especially when trying to keep our group of 10 vehicles together. Not to worry, we are here, some resting, some writing, some at the local Harley shop. Our program allowed for two nights in Banff, a beautiful tourist town, know for winter skiing and summer adventure sports, or sightseeing anytime.
The town was thick with tourists from all over the world, some speaking Mandarin (and in their hordes, blocking footpaths) others Spanish, and of course we Kiwis. Walking up and down Banff Ave (the main drag) is to weave in and out of slow moving foot traffic, but I was advised by my resident shopping adviser that there were things of interest (I having long since wandered of to places less crowded). The Rockies continue to impress, (particularly as a when the remnants of the smoke residue from wildfires permit), with my particular highlight being the spectacular Banff Springs Hotel, originally built in 1888, and like a medieval cathedral, gives the impression it will be around for centuries to come. The crows that appear to be the most prevalent form of wildlife, and quite plentiful in both town and country are as solid as concrete blocks, a deep and glossy black, and big enough to put a saddle on - you wouldn't want to run foul of them. Lake Louise is a must for every tourist, and whilst a beautiful Lake and quite impressive hotel, possibly more famous for being famous. Traffic and parking for anyone other than Harley riders who get directed to park wherever we like, is a nightmare, with shuttles operating from overflow car parks 2 & 5km away. Again, even first thing, tourists are very thick on the ground, with "selfie sticks" being a much preferred accessory by many, at l sat those from Asia, courtesy often being sacrificed in the process of capturing those many magical shots. To date signs of police (on the roads) have been few and far between (thankfully), but that all changed on Sunday, the last day of local school holidays, the local Sheriff's Dept being quite evident and very busy, one female deputy seen standing in the fast lane, pointing and demanding an errant motorist pull to the side and be dealt with, which he did. Phew, risky business. Tomorrow, a circuitous route from Banff to Calgary. |
Don MalcolmA perfect day involves being on my Harley with a long ride ahead.
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