Dawn was still chasing away the full moon when I went for a walk this morning, and the temperature was still below comfortable. That said, it was not the cold that concerned me, rather than my route along the main highway, no pavements (sidewalks) and a surprising amount of heavy traffic whizzing past. There was quite a bit of road kill, unfortunate racoons, rabbits, hares and pararie dogs - the deer (and plenty of of them) came later in the day. We were enjoying pre dinner drinks last night when Chuckie called for volunteers - Joe and I were selected by default (the only ones sober enough) to take two of the delightful office girls for a ride on a Harley - if only someone had taken photo's, we'd be able to claim bragging rights. Dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant, and amazingly the manager, a Mormon, had done his mission in Auckland - fancy that. Joe and Jason tackled the "special of the day" - a couple of breaded pork chops that must have come from a massive pig..... Apparently most restaurants in Utah are "dry", but the manager shot up the road and bought us a case of beer - marvelous. A big day today and a fairly early start after a reasonable breakfast. Most of us had gassed up and we ready to go before the morning sun started to bite so only a minor delay there. As the day progresses the heat in the sun really becomes incredible, especially as we're often devoid of any shade- sitting on the side of the road waiting gets quite uncomfortable, and very quickly. Another day of contrasts, great expanses of land that appears worthless for anything but is startkly beautiful as a consequence. Much of the early part of our day was spent traversing Flaming Gorge, and with it just about everything a rider looks for, a bit of twisty stuff (nothing like our wonderful NZ corners though), long straights, and great scenery. We saw many deer, both grazing quietly, and also those who had fallen victim to cars, dead and bloated roadside. Chuckie and Monica almost came to first name terms with a deer determined on suicide by Harley - Chuckie says that as he locked up his brakes, he could hear the hooves... Our scheduled stop at Manila (I don't know where these names come from) saw the one store in town, a combination grocery, hardware that also sold coffee, inundated - mainly because 22 people needed the restrooms... The landscape improved as the day progressed, a few shrubs started to appear, and eventually even a bit of grass, and with the grass, fences and cattle. The environment gives the impression of two extreme and very harsh seasons, with the communities we passed through reflecting this hardship. Final destination for the day (with many a sore backside testifying to a long day in the saddle) is the delightfully named Jackson Hole. We'd been making pretty good time until Doc realised he'd just overtaken a local Sheriff, and prudence kicked in... Tomorrow a day off the bikes. The word for today was "HOT" - note capitals. Boots, shirts and jocks suffering as the day progress - most rode in T shirts and tonight sunburnt pink (or shocking scarlet in my case). First stop of the day was 500 metres from the motel at Doc Halliday Harley Davidson - more T shirts, and a nice pair of bumless leather chaps for Kim - she'll be a hit with the fetish set back in Auckland. Once on the freeway Doc opened it up - speed limit 80 and trucks were still passing us. 80-90mph (140-150kpm) is a great touring speed. Towns with lovely names like Silt, Rifle, Parachute and Fruita (yep, that spelling is correct) flashed by, as we followed the Colorado River into Utah. The scenery was as dramatic as any I have ever seen anywhere in the world, and as with all things American, it is done on a HUGE scale - no half measures here. Moonscapes looming hundreds of metre above us on one side of the road, lush meadows and a winery the width of the raid and the river away. Our big Harleys ate up the miles, down from 10,000 ft to 3500ft, then back up again. As we hit Utah, the Colorado River became more impressive and "commercial" with white river rafting enterprises making use of the resource. The road through the gorge proved a source of entertainment - subject to extremes in temperature, it had been covered in a cobweb of tar filling cracks - lots of tar. Each time a front wheel hit the tar it would slide a few inches - then bite again , but very frightening the first few times. We lost one of a bikes for a few minutes - Moth needed an emergency pit stop (think number 2's) by the road side breaking a multitude of local laws in the process. We passed a desolate little town called Cisco today - every building had fallen down in spite of the "no trespassing" signs (as if). It had once been a port on the river - unfortunately God and Mother nature intervened and the course of the river changed - shit happens. Final stop of the day was Arches National Park - more spectacular landscape. I was quite intrigued to come across another tourist in this very pristine spot, but she was obviously had come from afar, where face masks and selfie sticks are fashionable... Our drinks session is underway and as a consequence I am keen to go. We spent the night in Green River, Utah, a sad wee town way past it's best, littered with abandoned motels, gas stations and once proud business premises. No doubt it was once prosperous but those days are long since gone, with those people remaining possibly without anywhere else to go. Dinner last night was at a reasonable restaurant (the only one for miles) across the road from our hotel - there were some fairly creative man made rock formations that were intriguing - surprising where creativity finds expression. The country is hard - ever changing but always hard, and little evidence of any agriculture other than those few areas where irrigation has transformed rock and dust into pasture. Access to water makes all the difference, but those areas are few and far between. Those with water can even make hay, baled green (almost artifically green in colour), ready for the harsh winter that will arrive all to soon. We stopped for coffee in a small town named "Price". Bigger and slightly, just ever so slightly more prosperous than Green River it was uninspiring, with the only coffee available at a supermarket or McDonalds. I remembered to buy some much need sunscreen- too little, too late! We have been reminded that "middle America" is often lacking prospects or prosperity, tumble down towns and communities living on very little, and very little to show for it as a consequence. It appears to be a dreary existance for many, very hot in summer, extreme snow in winter, virtually a desert 12 months a year. To date, inspite of any real knowledge of local speed limits (unless sign posted) we've been untroubled by State Trooper's, Highway Patrol or any of the many local Sheriff's Depts. In general terms open road limits vary between 50mph and 80mph. By all accounts, one or two have crossed into 3 figures (that is real money, not kilometres) so we really can expect the worst if we're pinged. A fairly short day on the road today, time for a late afternoon nap before drinks and dinner - an early start and long day looms tomorrow, Jackson Hole our destination, 5.5 hours on the bike Not sure where the bunnies were this morning, but perhaps I was a bit earlier than yesterday, and dawn was just making an appearance. Our people had been briefed and warned not to be late for the shuttle to Mile High Harley collect our bikes - even those with reputations for extreme tardiness were front and centre, bright and early. The paperwork required to hire a Harley is enough to excite any lawyer, waivers for this, indemnities for that, multiple documents, all pretty meaningless... That said, the staff were very efficient, and by 1030 we were out the gate, most slightly tentative about riding on the "wrong" side of the road, but off we went following Doc like a line of ducklings. I suspect technology may have got the better of Doc, and it appeared to be a rather circuitous route that found us out of Denver an hour later, 5 lanes becoming 3, then 2, and finally one - phew. Lunch in Leadville, where some of us bumped into another mob of 20 odd Kiwis on Harleys, freshly fed and just leaving, heading to whence we had just come, but also planning on being in Sturgis North Dakota at about the same time us. Very ominous rain clouds heading in our direction encouraged the donning of wet weather gear - quite a process over jackets and boots, but an effort deemed worthwhile - although later proven unnecessary. Before leaving Leadville, we gassed up- one of our crew normally rides a different marque, and managed to unscrew the second "decorative" fuel cap of the tank- pouring several litres of gas directly onto the engine before someone explained the error he'd made - could have been a different outcome. The famous town of Aspen, playground of the moneyed and celebrity was our next stop - a beautiful place. We rough Harley types were accosted by teenage girls fundraising for the Aspen Equestrian Team... The airport is a parking lot for literally hundreds of private aircraft, and we're not talking small Cessnas either - row after row of multi millon dollar toys - magnificent! We crossed the top of the Rockies today, over Independence Pass, and up to over 12000 ft - tough on those men and machines used to gulping air at sea level. A switch back road worthy of the Tour de France's Alp Huez was a highlight, steep gradient, no barriers' and a sheer drop of several thousand feet if you got it wrong. Doc nearly skittled a baby deer (a doe actually), and we saw another, much larger version, less lucky, lying dead and quite forelorn on the side of the road. We 21 hungry travellers wandered into a restaurant and nearly caused the manager to melt down - semi, and perhaps slightly understandably, Basil Fawlty-esque. He mentioned several times that they could not cope so eventually half of us went next door to a burger joint which was also quite hilarious - not to worry, all fed and ready for bed. So, a great first day, (except for the deer) pretty hot in places, pretty full on in traffic in others, but we're safe and happy in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, bound for Utah tomorrow. Mile High Harley Davidson was first stop - and whilst not nearly as big as many stores, had enough variety to get us started. One thing that is not available for sale (and the staff cannot not make any attempt at all) is to buy or sell a motor vehicle. So even if you'd rocked up with US$30,000 for a new Ultra, sorry Sir, not until tomorrow. Helmets and jackets, boots and bells, (all less 10% thanks to Doc),loaded into the back of the mighty Suburban (Yukon actually), next stop another mall, this one with a difference. Spread over a huge area, (much bigger in area than Sylia Park) probably 30 mins walking from end to end, multiple seperate building housed Macys, Target, Navy Blue,(many big brands I have never heard off), including a multitude of bars and restaurants. Walking from one to the other in the heat of the early afternoon was a precursor for what we'll experience on the bikes - phew. But they were not the reason we were there - no way. What could be the worlds largest hunting and fishing store - want to buy a boat, "no problem, step this way sir!". Rifles, shotguns and pistols - fathers with their young sons, picking out their first rifle, or if you'd prefer, camo sleepware for your baby- very cute. Trophy heads and huge numbers of taxidermied animals, bison and buffalo, lions and Hippos, too many bears to count... Not really my thing. Back at the hotel, watching from afar as Denver City takes it's turn from the approaching and forecast storm - apparently will pass fairly quickly. Time for a quick nap now, before meeting the crew for drinks in the bar. It is 643am and I have just returned from a short walk, the sun already starting to burn on a day that the forecast promised thunder and lightning, but time enough for that. The main body of our group arrived last night, dutifully collected by Doc & Barb. A few minutes later drinks in the bar, then a late dinner - orders placed after 10pm, the kitchen staff (of one) was thrown into chaos with 16 dinners to whip up. Those of us who where here yesterday were preordained after Barb's previous exploratory visit, to spend time at a massive outlet mall 30 minutes from our hotel. Brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Columbia, GAP, Levis, Nike, Ralph Lauren(over 100 name brands) - quite amazing, with discounts of 40-50% typically shown off retail. Even the most reluctant shoppers amongst us (and that would include me, one who never willing shops other than online), had spoils in flash branded bags as reward for time spent. Quite amazing and obviously extremely popular, we arrived just before 10am opening and the huge multiple carparks were empty, but 2.5 hours later, chocka. Later in the day we took a tiki tour into Denver Downtown, and along touristy 16th St. The temperature was mid 30's and any time in the sun was hard going. We took temporary refuge in the shade at an Irish bar, pub lunch and cooling amber before tackling the heat. The homeless and itinerent are ever present, some panhandling with their plea in a few scrawled words on a tatty piece of cardboard, overs having foregone all hope, sleeping, backs to the world. One wonders how they cope with the flip side of the temperature coin when winter comes, when below zero is a reality for many months, and metre dumps of overnight snow are a regular occurance. The US really is a country of contrasts. Back to my walk - we are out by the Airport in a a new development in Aurora City - an area so new that the footpaths have yet to dull from the bright white contrete only has for a short time, the grass is manicured and watered or it would not last until lunch time. Denver is "the mile high city", a bit of altitude, aforementioned extremes in weather, and certainly not conducive to any apparent agrigulture. Two wee bunnies enjoying this lush grass for breakfast were a pleasant momentary distraction, seemingly unfazed by this lumbering walker heading back to the airconditioned splender of the Cambria Suites. Our shuttle to Mile High Harley is booked for 10am, but alas, not to collect bikes for that is not until tomorrow. Todays visit is to Harley guys what the outlet store is to women - retail therapy. There are jackets, boots, helmets and gloves to buy - and of course the ever important Harley bells need to protect us whilst we'reon the road. More on the protective power of a Harley bell later (and whilst not an overly superstitious person,I would be reluctant to entrust fate alone without a bell). Nearly time for breakfast -although my pillion is still asleep, reluctant to arise just yet. Anyone used to travelling knows that going anywhere takes time, and not just the time in the air. To travel from Utrecht to Schiphol (Amsterdam Airport), then to London Heathrow, another 11 hours to Lax, then 3 different security checks ,before reaching final destination Denver - well over 24 hours. Hours faffing around with security, customs and between flights all add up. Crazy, I'm complaining about taking a day or two to get from one side of the world to the other... One "highlight" was the Virgin Lounge at LHR - a benchmark for other airlines to aspire too -unfortunately and rather disappointingly for the weary business traveller, there are some pretty average lounges about. Linda arrived in LAX shortly after me and we hooked up in the United terminal. Harley tour leader (Doc,Director of our Auckland HOG chapter and all round good guy, was at Denver Airport to collect us - a great start to the Harley part of our Odyssey to Sturgis. Doc and his dear wife Barb put a huge amount of time and effort into organising this annual tours, making it pretty easy for the rest of us. Apparently our hire bikes (all brand new or near new) are ready and waiting for us to collect on Monday - I am really looking forward to getting out on the road again. Because I have crossed so many time zones and had so little sleep (other than cat naps here and there) during a last few hectic days, it will be nice to try and get things back in sync - I'm a zombie at the moment. Perhaps even a sleep in, although I suspect not - Barb has suggested a tour around the outlet shops that are apparently prevalent in Denver - oh joy! A very early start, awake several hours before my alarm went of at 4:45. A short walk to Utrecht Centraal (railway station), and a farewell to this pretty little town. Schiphol Airport is as big as most, any like many is under renovation. Lots of walking involved which is no real problem for the fit and active, but a bugger for the elderly or infirm - thankfully I am still on the fringes of both. Time for me to leave the lounge and start the 20 minute trek to Gate 47. Hello from Holland I have finished my business and am now enjoying the sights of ancient Utrecht, a much smaller and more civilised version of Amsterdam, which is 30kms distant. I like Holland, other than the language which I find quite harsh especially after French. Anyway, a beer sits before me as I rest my weary feet - I'm at an outside table in a square, watching locals and tourists wind down their day. The thousands of bicycles are of the design specific to Holland, and are testimony to how flat it is here.
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Don MalcolmA perfect day involves being on my Harley with a long ride ahead.
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